Before you commit
Cooktop
repair cost,
band by band.
Bands rather than prices, because the same repair costs differently on a freestanding unit and on a built-in. What does not change is the order — the cheap causes are also the common ones — or the rule that decides repair against replace.
Mon–Sat, 8am–8pm
- 9 priced jobs
- 5 bands
- Price in writing first
Book a visit
Three short steps, about a minute.
or call (844) 252-4077
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A cooktop is priced once it has been tested.
The scale on this page shows where cooktop jobs tend to fall, never what yours will come to. A zone that stays cold can be an element, a limiter, a switch, a relay or a board; a burner that only clicks can be a wet electrode, a cracked one or a tired module. A description cannot separate them. A figure given before the cooktop has been run and measured is a guess, or it is padded to cover the worst case. Here the price comes after the diagnosis and before any part is fitted, and whether to go ahead is your call.
The bands, job by jobWhen you book, ask what the diagnostic visit costs and whether it is credited toward the repair.
Expect the repair to be priced at your counter once the failed part is known, with nothing started until you say yes.
If the cooktop is not worth fixing, you are told so, and that advice is part of what the visit is for.
What a repair
usually costs.
The fair comparison for a cooktop repair is not a new cooktop's shelf tag but a new one that fits your existing cutout. Counter openings differ between makes by fractions of an inch, a model that needs a larger hole means recutting stone or replacing a section of countertop, and a change of fuel brings a gas fitter or an electrician into the job. That is why electrodes, coils, switches, elements and fans are nearly always worth replacing, and why a new cooktop tends to win only when the glass and a board fail together, a discontinued model has no boards left, or a gas burner box has corroded through.
| Repair | Relative cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Burner head, cap or electrode | low | Cleaning and reseating a burner needs no parts at all. An electrode, a burner head or a cap is a small part fitted from above, with no need to lift the cooktop out of the counter. |
| Spark module, gas valve or regulator | low to moderate | A spark switch or module sits toward the lower end. A valve or a regulator comes out higher, because the cooktop is raised from its cutout and every joint that was opened is leak-tested before it goes back. |
| Radiant element or limiter | low to moderate | The element itself is a modest part. The time goes into lifting a glass cooktop out of the counter and resealing it, and a dual or triple element sits a little above a single ring. |
| Glass-ceramic top | moderate to highest | The panel is large and made for one model, and moving the elements, coils and keys across to it takes time. On a premium induction cooktop this is among the costliest jobs the site lists. |
| Coil element, receptacle or drip bowl | lowest | Coils, receptacles and drip bowls are some of the least costly parts a cooktop uses. Scorched wire behind a receptacle adds a little time and not much more. |
| Induction power board, coil or sensor | moderate to highest | A coil temperature sensor stays near the middle. A power board, or a pair of boards on a wide induction cooktop, sits at the top of this site's scale. |
| Touch control board or key panel | moderate | A reseated ribbon cable costs little. A control board lands in the middle, and a key panel bonded to the glass can push the job toward the glass-top row. |
| Infinite switch or knob | low | A knob is minor, and a switch is a short job reached through the lifted top or the front panel. Burnt terminals on the switch are renewed during the same visit. |
| Cooling fan, downdraft blower or lift motor | low to moderate | A cooling fan under an induction cooktop sits near the low end. A downdraft blower reached through the cabinet or ducted under the floor, or the lift motor of a rising vent, moves the job toward the middle. |
What the diagnostic
visit covers.
The first visit decides what the repair actually is. The fee, and whether it is credited against the repair, is said when you book, before anyone comes out.
The diagnostic visitRunning every burner or zone with a pan on it, at low and at high, along with the controls, the lights and any downdraft, so the problem is seen rather than described.
Checking the simple causes beneath the counter before the cooktop is lifted: the gas shutoff, the connector, the breaker, the junction box and the air space for the fan.
Measuring the likely parts, from electrodes, elements and switches to spark modules, sensors and induction boards, instead of guessing from the symptom.
A clear account of the failed part, the work and the price, or honest advice that a new cooktop is the better use of the money.
What moves
the price.
Five things decide where in its band a repair lands. None of them is known for certain until a technician has seen the cooktop.
The typesGas, electric, induction or a rangetop
Gas work centers on electrodes, valves and the connection under the counter, and ends with a leak test. Electric work means elements, switches and wiring. Induction adds power boards, sensors and a fan, and a rangetop adds heavy burners, re-ignition and griddle parts.
How the cooktop sits in the counter
A drop-in cooktop lifts out of its cutout once its clips are free. A flush-mounted glass model is set into a routed edge and takes longer to free and reseal, and a heavy rangetop on its base cabinet takes two people to move.
Which part failed
Coils, electrodes, knobs and switches sit at the bottom of the scale. Elements, spark modules and fans are a step up, and glass tops, control boards and induction power boards are at the top.
The make and its parts supply
Common makes have parts in stock and often on the van. Imported and premium cooktops can mean costlier parts and longer waits, and a board that is no longer made can settle the question of repairing on its own.
One visit or two
When a part has to be ordered, the technician comes back to fit it. The model and serial numbers are on a plate under the cooktop and often on a card in the cabinet below; sending them when you book helps the right part come the first time.
Not every cooktop
breaks the same way.
A gas cooktop sparks its burners alight, an electric one heats coils or ribbon elements under smooth glass, an induction top warms the pan itself through a magnetic field, and a pro-style rangetop brings heavy gas burners and front knobs to a base cabinet. Find the one in your counter.
All cooktop types
Gas cooktop
A gas cooking surface dropped into a countertop cutout, with its gas line and power cord running down into the cabinet underneath.
Electric cooktop
A coil or smooth-glass radiant cooking surface built into the countertop and wired to its own circuit in the cabinet or wall behind it.
Induction cooktop
A glass cooktop in the counter that heats the pan itself through magnetic coils, run by power boards and cooled by a fan underneath.
Rangetop
A pro-style gas cooking top with its knobs across the front, set into a notch above a base cabinet, often with a griddle or char-broiler beside the burners.
Every kind we serviceAll cooktops, side by side
The archive puts the 4 types against each other: how to tell which you own, what fails on each, and which manufacturers build them.
How to tell yoursWhat fails on eachWho makes them Open the type archive
Questions about
the price.
How much is the cooktop diagnostic visit?
Why are cooktop costs shown in bands rather than exact figures?
Once the diagnosis is done, must I go ahead with the repair?
Could the price rise once the repair has started?
Back to your everyday
Let’s get your cooktop working again.
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