Cooktop
error codes,
read properly.

A burner was turned to light and the cooktop never sensed a flame, or the spark carried on after the flame caught. A damp or greasy electrode and a cap resting off its base are ruled out before the spark module, a knob switch or the valve is changed. Gas in the air matters more than any code: leave the house and call the gas utility once outside.

Usually leads to

Burner and igniter repair

Shows up as

Cooktop Burner Won't LightCooktop Igniter Keeps ClickingCooktop Flame Yellow or UnevenCooktop Gas Smell

A ribbon element under the glass, or a coil on an older top, did not heat the way its control asked, or kept heating past the setting. The pan, the infinite switch or touch relay behind it and the wiring to the terminal block come first; the element and its temperature limiter follow. A zone that will not switch off means the breaker goes off before anything else.

Usually leads to

Radiant element repair

Shows up as

Cooktop Element Not HeatingCooktop Element Only Heats on HighCooktop Simmer Too HotCooktop Burner or Element Won't Turn Off

An induction zone could not drive its coil as the board planned: no pan was detected, the current ran too high or too low, or the power stage reported trouble. The pan base, the supply voltage and a clogged air intake are checked before the coil or the power board is replaced, and a top that trips its breaker is left switched off until then.

Usually leads to

Induction board and coil repair

Shows up as

Induction Cooktop Not Detecting PanInduction Cooktop Buzzing or ClickingCooktop Tripping BreakerCooktop Error Code

A sensor under the glass or on a board reported a reading the control rejected, or heat climbing past the safe limit — often after an empty pan was left on a zone. The zone is allowed to cool and a loose sensor plug is ruled out before the sensor, the coil assembly or the board is blamed. A top that keeps getting hotter is switched off at the breaker first.

Usually leads to

Induction board and coil repair

Shows up as

Cooktop Hot Surface Light Stays OnCooktop Simmer Too HotCooktop Element Not HeatingCooktop Error Code

A key on the glass was held down too long, pressed with nothing there, or stopped answering altogether. Water, a spill or a pan resting on the key strip is ruled out first, then the touch board and its ribbon cable. If a zone keeps heating while the keys are dead, switch the cooktop off at the breaker.

Usually leads to

Touch control repair

Shows up as

Cooktop Controls UnresponsiveCooktop Burner or Element Won't Turn OffCooktop Error Code

The fan that pulls air through the electronics under an induction top, or the blower behind a downdraft vent, turned slower than the control expected or would not stop. A drawer packed tight against the chassis, a greasy filter and a loose plug come first; a worn motor or its speed sensor comes after.

Usually leads to

Cooling fan and downdraft repair

Shows up as

Cooktop Fan Runs ConstantlyCooktop Burning SmellCooktop Error Code

The touch board and the power board under the glass lost track of each other, or one failed its own start-up check. A power dip, a ribbon or harness pulled loose when the top was fitted, or moisture from a boil-over is ruled out before a board is replaced, and a cooktop that keeps heating while this code shows is switched off at the breaker.

Usually leads to

Touch control repair

Shows up as

Cooktop Controls UnresponsiveCooktop Error CodeCooktop Tripping Breaker